Try to form a plus sign on the top of the cube, matching the colors of the side stickers to the colors of the lateral centers. This step shouldn't be too hard, try to do this without reading the examples below.
We can easily insert the edge to the top if you move it to the highlighted bottom-front spot first. Depending on where the white sticker is facing do the rotations.
When the white edge is stuck between two solved edges last image you can send it to the bottom layer doing this:. I used capital letters to mark the clockwise face rotations: F front , R right , L left , U up , D down. When the white edges are matching we can move on to solve the white coners. First put the white corner that belongs to the spot marked with the upper arrow in either of the highlighted positions.
Next repeat the algorithm below until the white piece comes to its desired destination. This trick sends the piece back and forth between the top and bottom locations, twisting the corner in each step. Using this you can solve each white corner in less than 6 iterations. At the end your cube should have a solid white face with the lateral stickers matching the lateral centers.
Turn your cube upside down because we don't need to work with the white face anymore. We can insert an edge piece from the top-front position to the middle layer using a trick. To beat Fortnite 's Cube Assassin, dodge her gunfire, and shoot at her as often as possible. When the shield spawns, run behind her and continue firing. The shield only covers her front, so damage can still be inflicted while it's up.
Depending on the weapons players use, it can take several rounds of gunfire and shield spawning to finally beat her. There are worthwhile rewards for players that can manage to defeat the Cube Assassin. After her health bar is depleted, the Sideways will disappear, and she will become like the other NPCs in Season 8 of Fortnite.
Speaking with her will allow players to purchase cube monster parts which can be used to upgrade the rarity of a weapon. Players looking to defeat the Cube Assassin will be met with a difficult challenge, but the rewards are worth trying to get.
In main. The first attempt at an updater thread turned out to create some flickering in the animations. After some debugging, we found out that frames were being transmitted before they were fully drawn by the effect functions.
We generally do a fill 0x00 , then some code to draw new pixels. To overcome this we create a double buffer and sync the two buffers at a point in time where the effect function has finished drawing the frame. We just put a memcpy inside there to copy the cube buffer to the rs buffer. This works beautifully. No more flickering! All the effect functions running on the micro controller mostly use if statements to create effects. The effects on the PC software are built a little different.
We use a lot of sin , cos and other math functions here. Most coordinates are calculated as floating point coordinates then typecast into integers before being drawn on the cube. The result is that the sine wave moves out from the center as the iteration counter increases. We call this point the origin, since the wave emanates from this point. The result is that these x and y coordinates moves around in a circle, resulting in a sin wave that comes in from the side. We just wanted to show you how easy it is to completely alter an effect by tweaking some variables when working with math based effects!
To make this effect, we really had to sit down and think about how fireworks work, and which forces influence the firework particles. With this model in mind we created a fireworks effect with a pretty convincing result.
Here is how it works:. Fireworks exploding near the ground can be dangerous! Each particle has an x, y and z coordinate as well as a velocity for each axis, dx, dy and dz. The slowrate is calculated using tan which will return an exponentially increasing number, slowing the particles faster and faster. Also using tan.
The effect of gravity is also exponential. This probably isn't the mathematically correct way of calculating gravity's effect on an object, but it looks good.
This will make the particles move slower and slower. Since we published our last LED Cube instructable, we have gotten a lot of questions from people wondering if they could use an Arduino to control the cube. Since the multiplexer array and AVR board are separated by a ribbon cable, connecting the IO lines to an Arduino is a simple matter of connecting some breadboard wires.
Luckily, we soldered in a female 0. Just remove the ATmega and connect wires from the Arduino to these pin headers. Address bus: Digital pins On this we HAVE to use direct port access. Arduinos digitalWrite wouldn't work with this, because you can't set multiple pins simultaneously. If the address pins are not set at the exact same time, the output of the 74HC would trigger the wrong latches.
Output Enable: Digital pin Layer transistors: Analog pins and digital pins 12 and We had to go a bit outside the scope of the Arduino platform.
The intention of Arduino is to use digitalWrite for IO port access, to make the code portable and some other reasons. We had to sidestep that and access the ports directly. In addition to that, we had to use one of the timers for the interrupt routine. The registers for the interrupt and timers are different on different AVR models, so the code may not be portable between different versions of the Arduino board.
Disaster strikes. A LED inside the cube is broken! We had a couple of LEDs break actually. Luckily the hardest one to get to was only one layer inside the cube. To remove the LED, just take a small pair of needle nose pliers and put some pressure on the legs, then give it a light touch with the soldering iron. The leg should pop right out. Do this for both legs, and it's out. Inserting a new LED is the tricky part.
It needs to be as symmetrical and nice as the rest of the LEDs. We used a helping hand to hold it in place while soldering.
It went surprisingly well, and we can't even see which LEDs have been replaced. We love getting feedback on our projects! As a token of gratitude for all the great feedback, here is a collage of some of the feedback on our 4x4x4 LED cube instructable:.
Question 5 weeks ago on Introduction. Question 5 months ago. Hi everyone, I successfully completed my 8x8x8 LED cube some months ago, and recently decided I wanted to make it more portable by simply adding a 3xAA battery pack to power it. However, in the process of completing that taking the boards out of the casing and adding in the battery pack to the power lines , my cube has now started running into issues. The issues may have occurred before this changeover but not that I was aware of.
In particular, the cube appears to struggle to draw patterns upwards or downwards when lighting up more than a few columns. It shows that each column can be lit up without issue. The diagnostic is then meant to light up each and every LED one by one from the bottom. However, mine instead appears to light up each layer via each LED one by one, but the last verticle plane always fails to do so.
In the end the whole cube is meant to be lit. This is shown when it looks like a single column lights up dimly. It also shows how other potentially less power consuming animations work flawlessly. These tests make me vaguely think it could be something to do with the transistor layer select array however I am not sure. Any advice would be beyond appreciated.
Question 8 months ago. I m having a wierd problem with my cube: when i flash the test code, everything works corectly, however, when i flash the cube.
Any sugestions? Thank you. Question 9 months ago. Is it possible to use WSB chips in series? Like a cube with a snake pattern for the LEDs? How significantly would that alter the PCB and software for this project? Question 10 months ago. Answer 10 months ago.
I added several buttons to repeat, forward, backward and music mode. However, this requires a lot of code changes but it is doable. Question 10 months ago on Introduction. Who do they belong to? Question 1 year ago. I do understand and realize that if I can, there will be changes in wiring and power supply. But what about the other components like the resistors, capacitors etc.
I am just curious to ask. I am going to give the one you have listed out here a try for sure. Reply 1 year ago. Hello there. I'd love to make this project but I'm thinking of starting with a 4X4X4 cube first. Do you mind showing and directing me on what changes I'd make to the board? Hi, does anyone know any reason that cat5e wire would be unacceptable? I have over ft of cat5e cable.
Very exciting! Hey hi.. Nice Project. Actually i am also making this project i want to know if i use 74hc instead of 74hc do i need to chnge codes?.. If yes then can you explain a little bit. Thanks for your response.. Just buy the chip. The code changes are quite involved and that's a lot of work you're asking someone to do for you for free.
Question 2 years ago. Answer 1 year ago. Use a 1k resistor or experiment on a breadboard to get the value right. I am going to let you in on what on i did to cut the pull up and the extra transistor from the equation. I simply used a TIP darlington array transistor for the layer selects it can switch up to 5 amps removing the extra transistor and I never had any ghosting.
It is a proven method check out my "I made it" page. Hello randomcoder11, Can you please share the schematic of Tip based layer driver? Here is the schematic for one layer. Be careful! The base and collector are swapped on the TO package it comes in. Don't get confused wondering why your circuit isn't working like I did. Thanks randomcoder What about the pull-up resistor? Shall we need to connect the resistor to collector pin of the tip?
Introduction: LED Cube 8x8x8. By chr Follow. More by the author:. Create your own 8x8x8 LED Cube 3-dimensional display! We believe this Instructable is the most comprehensive step-by-step guide to build an 8x8x8 LED Cube ever published on the intertubes. It will teach you everything from theory of operation, how to build the cube, to the inner workings of the software. About halfway through the Instructable, you will actually have a fully functional LED cube.
The remaining steps will show you how to create the software. A video is worth a thousand words. I'll just leave it up to this video to convince you that this is the next project you will be building:.
At first glance this project might seem like an overly complex and daunting task. However, we are dealing with digital electronics here, so everything is either on or off! I've been doing electronics for a long time, and for years i struggled with analog circuits. The analog circuits failed over half the time even if i followed instructions. One resistor or capacitor with a slightly wrong value, and the circuit doesn't work. About 4 years ago, I decided to give microcontrollers a try.
This completely changed my relationship with electronics. I went from only being able to build simple analog circuits, to being able to build almost anything! A digital circuit doesn't care if a resistor is 1k ohm or 2k ohm, as long as it can distinguish high from low.
And believe me, this makes it A LOT easier to do electronics! With that said, there are still some things you should know before venturing out and building this rather large project. You should have an understanding of: Basic electronics. We would recommend against building this as your very first electronics project. But please read the Instructable. You'll still learn a lot! How to solder. How to use a multimeter etc.
Writing code in C optional. We provide a fully functional program, ready to go You should also have patience and a generous amount of free time.
The type with copper "eyes", see image. You choose color and size. See attached price list. Attachments pricelist. You would need a micro controller with IO ports, and run wires through the cube. If you flash a led really fast, the image will stay on your retina for a little while after the led turns off. By flashing each layer of the cube one after another really really fast, it gives the illusion of a 3d image, when int fact you are looking at a series of 2d images stacked ontop oneanother.
This is also called multiplexing. In the video, the process is slowed down enough for you to see it, then it runs faster and faster until the refresh rate is fast enough for the camera to catch the POV effect. This chip has the following pins: 8 inputs D 8 outputs Q 1 "latch" pin CP 1 output enable pin OE The job of the latch is to serve as a kind of simple memory.
There is another solution for providing more output lines. We went with the latch based multiplexer because we had 8 latches available when building the LED cube.
You can also use a serial-in-parallel out shift register to get 64 output lines. This chip has two inputs may also have an output enable pin, but we will ignore this in this example.
Everything is shifted one position to the right assuming that Q0 is to the left. The state of the data input line is shifted into Q0. The way you would normally load data into a chip like this, is to take a byte and bit-shift it into the chip one bit at a time. This uses a lot of CPU cycles. However, we have to use 8 of these chips to get our desired 64 output lines.
We simply connect the data input of each shift register to each of the 8 bits on a port on the micro controller. All the clock inputs are connected together and connected to a pin on another IO port.
This setup will use 9 IO lines on the micro controller. In the previous solution, each byte in our buffer array was placed in it's own latch IC. In this setup each byte will be distributed over all 8 shift registers, with one bit in each.
The following pseudo-code will transfer the contents of a 64 bit buffer array to the shift registers. For the purposes of this instructable, we will be using a latch based multiplexer for IO port expansion. Feel free to use this solution instead if you understand how they both work.
With this setup, the contents of the buffer will be "rotated" 90 degrees compared to the latch based multiplexer. Wire up your cube accordingly, or simply just turn it 90 degrees to compensate ;. In order to make a nice looking LED Cube, you need some straight steel wire.
The only wire we had was on spools, so it had to be straightened. Our first attempt at this failed horribly. We tried to bend it into a straight wire, but no matter how much we bent, it just wasn't straight enough. Then we remembered an episode of "How it's made" from the Discovery Channel. The episode was about how they make steel wire. They start out with a spool of really thick wire, then they pull it through smaller and smaller holes. We remembered that the wire was totally straight and symmetrical after being pulled like that.
So we figured we should give pulling a try, and it worked! Here is how you do it. Remove the insulation, if any. Get a firm grip of each end of the wire with two pairs of pliers Pull hard!
You will feel the wire stretch a little bit. You only need to stretch it a couple of millimeters to make it nice and straight. If you have a vice, you can secure one end in the vice and use one pair of pliers. This would probably be a lot easier, but we don't own a vice. We use an external crystal of You may be thinking that this is an odd number to use, and why we didn't run the ATmega at the 16MHz it is rated for.
Serial communication requires precise timing. If the timing is off, only by a little bit, some bits are going to be missed or counted double from time to time. We won't be running any error correcting algorithms on the serial communications, so any error over the line would be represented in the LED cube as a voxel being on or off in the wrong place. To get flawless serial communication, you have to use a clock frequency that can be divided by the serial frequency you want to use.
As you can see all of these RS baud rates can be cleanly divided by our clock rate. Serial communication will be error free! We see people do a lot of weird stuff when they solder on prototype PCBs. Before you continue, we just want to share with you the process we use to create tracks on prototype PCBs with solder eyes.
Once you master this technique, you will probably start using it a lot. You can see in the video how we do it. We had to touch some of the points twice to join them. It was a bit hard to have the camera in the way when we were soldering ;. After connecting these two cables, your board is complete. The ATmega32 has two fuse bytes. These contain settings that have to be loaded before the CPU can start, like clock source and other stuff.
We set the lower fuse byte lfuse to 0b, and the high fuse byte to 0b In all the following examples, we will be using an Ubuntu Linux computer. The commands should be identical if you run avrdude on Windows. If you for example disable the reset button, you won't be able to re-program it. If you select the wrong clock source, it might not boot at all. Time to test if your brand new LED cube actually works! We have prepared a simple test program to check if all the LEDs work and if they are wired correctly.
You can download the firmware test. As in the previous step, we use avrdude for programming: avrdude -c usbtiny -p m32 -B 1 -U flash:w:test. Attachments test.
The test code you programmed in the previous step will let you confirm that everything is wired up correctly. It will start by drawing a plane along one axis, then moving it along all 8 positions of that axis.
After that, it will light the LEDs in a layer one by one, starting at the bottom layer. If any of the layers or columns seem to light up in the wrong order, you have probably soldered the wrong wire to the wrong layer or column.
We had one mistake in our cube ; If you find anything that is out of order, just de-solder the wires and solder them back in the right order. You could of course make a workaround in software, but that would eat CPU cycles every time the interrupt routine runs.
You can compare your cube to the test video below:. So everything checked out in the test. It's time to program the ATmega with the real firmware! For the most part, the process is the same as in the previous programming step. Firmware is programmed using the same procedure as with the test code.
Firmware: avrdude -c usbtiny -p m32 -B 1 -U flash:w:main. If you don't want to play around with the code, your LED cube is finished at this point. But we recommend that you spend some time on the software side of things as well. That's at least as much fun as the hardware! If you download the binary files, you have to change the filenames in the commands to the name of the files you downloaded.
If you compile from source the name is main. We wrote a small function called bootwait. This function serves two purposes. It does the following: 1 Set counter x to 0. Bootwait is called from the main function and its return value assigned to the variable i.
The heart of the LED cube code is the interrupt routine. For every run of the interrupt, the following takes place: 1 All the layer transistors are switched off. We have made a small library of low level graphic functions.
Crafting Planner Free. Sound Board pro Free. Features Time all your solvings Easy utilisation Keeps track of all your times Compute 5 kinds of average. Approximate size Age rating For all ages. Installation Get this app while signed in to your Microsoft account and install on up to ten Windows 10 devices. Language supported English United States. Publisher Info Rubik's Cube Timer support. Additional terms Terms of transaction.
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